Instructions
-79-93 s2 single turbo kit install - updated text, working on the pics
-79-93 "b series" single turbo kit install
-79-93 s2 twin turbo kit install
- Changing a turbo exhaust housing
- Tial tech page - wastegate, blow off valve info

*Mods & Recommendations for your turbo mustang*
-since our kits are tuner kits here is what you will need to complete your mustang-

Up to 450hp
-boost gauge
-180* or 160* thermostat depending on how warm the engine gets
-255 in tank fuel pump
-36# injectors (stock motor
-42# injectors (heads, intake, etc...)
-c&l 76mm maf calibrated to what ever size injectors you have (ex. 42# injectors)
-6 psi or less -  1 heat range colder ex. autolite 3924 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35 
-7-14 psi - 2 heat ranges colder ex autolite 3923 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35
-premium gas
-3:27 rear end gears or 3:55 for a 28 tall tire
-proper clutch or auto trans mods for the hp level
*adjustable fuel regulator (optional)


450hp 600hp
-boost gauge
-180* or 160* thermostat depending on how warm the engine gets
- 3 core radiator depending on how warm the engine gets
-255 in tank pump plus a inline fuel pump
- aftermarket fuel rails w/ adjustable fuel regulator
- 42# or 50# injectors
-c&l 76mm or PMAS mass air meter
-any mls head gasket (ex. cometic or fel pro)
-msd ignition
-arp head bolts or studs
-6 psi or less -  1 heat range colder ex. autolite3924 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35 
-7-14 psi - 2 heat ranges colder ex autolite 3923 sparkplugs gapped at 30-35
-3:27 rear end gears or 3:55 for a 28 tall tire
-proper clutch or auto trans mods for the hp level
-premium gas

600hp plus (call)

Basic start up settings
-set timing at 6* and work your way up
-set fuel at 39 psi as a low starting point
-premium gas
-set tps sensor .98-1

-if using a manual boost controller leave it off until you determine your boost level and then install the boost controller when you are ready to adjust the boost higher
*note* with a boost controller you can only adjust above what the wastegate spring is set up for. So if your wastegate spring is 6psi you can adjust from 6psi and up.

Start up your car and while it warms up check for fluid leaks, air leaks, etc.... After the car has warmed up do a couple of gauge checks. Check the oil pressure & engine temperature. Once your happy with that go for a basic low rpm drive for a couple of miles. Under part throttle the car should idle and run good.

Once you feel the car is driveling good go for a  wot run (4th gear for a stick, 3rd gear in a auto * not od). Now just get on the gas for a little bit while trying to look at the boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge if you have it and for detonation. Detonation sounds like a can full of marbles for anyone who is not familiar with the sound. Now do a longer run on the car and then cut the ignition off and roll to a stop so you can check the plugs.

We like to check the #5 and #6 sparkplugs. So once the car has cooled down pull out the plugs and look at it. Is it white (lean)? Is it tan (good)? Is it dark (rich) Ok now its time for you to decide what to do. if its rich you can add timing. If its lean you can add fuel pressure. The goal it to have a nice tan plug. yes lean is mean but it can also mean a fine line between changing a head gasket or hurting a motor.

For those people out there with a wide band 02 gauge we tune idle for around 14.7 and wot to 11.8

*These are just some basics for you to get your car up and running. If you really don't know what your doing this may be a good point to turn over your car to some one who is experienced*


Locked Timing vs Non Locked Timing
locked timing is where you pull the timing spout out and set the timing to lets say 18* and leave it just like that. You do not put the spout back in. You can set it to more than 18* but that's just a starting point. This is a good way of running at the track under wot, but it sucks on the street. Your start up will be rough and your part throttle will be rough.